More Information on Fleas

Can fleas fly?
Fleas do not fly and are wingless as adults. Their preferred method of movement is for the adults to jump onto a host when that animal passes close by. Flea larvae are mobile and will move slowly from one location to another by crawling. The main reasons flea larvae move are to locate food and a protective, shaded, moist location that is favorable to the flea larvae’s survival.

Do fleas carry disease?
Yes, fleas can transmit diseases when taking a blood meal from a host or via contaminated fecal pellets. Some flea-borne diseases include:

• Plague – transmitted by the Oriental rat flea
• Flea-borne typhus, also known as murine typhus – transmitted by the bacteria-infested feces of infected cat fleas when they enter the body at the time of the flea’s bite or from scratching the area of the bite.
• Bartonellosis –Oriental rat flea and cat flea bites may transmit cat scratch disease.
• Flea tapeworm – can be transmitted if children accidently eat an infected flea or contact infected feces.
• Tungiasis – a tropical area ailment that is caused by the chigoe flea (Tunga penetrans) when it burrows into the skin and takes a blood meal. As the adult female feeds, she grows larger due to the development of her eggs. The bite of the chigoe flea often results in secondary infections and itching.

Flea Bites

Flea bites result in red spots surrounded by reddened haloes. They are extremely itchy and cause great discomfort. Fleas often target the legs and feet of human victims and may infest the entire bodies of domestic house pets. Many wildlife species carry fleas as well. If these animals are associated around ones home, fleas may migrate to pets and humans. Be aware that other causes may result in human skin irritation, including other pests, allergic reactions to medications or even ingrown hairs.

In some pets flea saliva can cause allergic reactions such as FAD, and increased scratching can result in hair loss and secondary infections. In more severe cases, affected pet skin thickens and sores appear.

Flea Treatment

Flea Treatment

Since the immature stages of fleas are very cryptic by nature, the first thing the homeowner should do is contact our office for assistance. Most of the time simply using over-the-counter products for controlling fleas will not resolve the root causes of the infestation. Your pest management professional will conduct a thorough inspection and locate areas where the immature stages of the flea population are residing. After completing the inspection, the next step is preparing the flea management plan. This plan will include:

• Identifying the flea species causing the problem.
• Education explaining the flea’s life cycle and how their habits, habitat and behavior affects the control plan.
• Inspecting for the presence of other animals that are the flea population’s source of food. This may include rodents either inside or outside the home or perhaps a raccoon or feral cat that is living in the crawl space.
• Homeowner contacting their veterinarian for advice and purchase of flea control products that can be used on pets.
• Regular bathing and grooming of pets.
• Explaining the use of growth regulators that will interfere with the flea’s normal development into the adult stage.
• Using a strong vacuum to physically remove flea eggs, larvae, pupae and adults.
• Frequently washing and drying pet bedding.
• Treating affected areas by using safe and effective flea control products where immature fleas may be located.
• Scheduling a follow-up visit.

Life Cycle of Fleas

Fleas undergo complete metamorphosis. The life cycle, or stages, of the flea is composed of the egg, larval, pupal and adult stages. Cycle length ranges from several weeks to several months and is largely dependent upon environmental conditions.

Eggs

Fleas lay between four to eight eggs after a meal, with the highest concentrations of laying occurring within the last few days of the female’s life. Unlike the eggs of some other parasites, flea eggs are not sticky and usually fall to the ground immediately upon being laid. Flea eggs hatch into larvae within one to 12 days. 

Larvae

Flea larvae are approximately 3 to 5.2 mm long and are semitransparent white in color. The larval stage lasts from four to 18 days, after which larvae spin silken cocoons and enter the pupal stage. The pupal stage may be complete within three days, or it can last as long as one year.

Flea larvae hatch from eggs that were laid by a female flea and have fallen off the animal host. Once away from the host, the larvae seek out shaded locations such as cracks in the floor, in carpets, in pet bedding or protected locations under and in furniture. Flea larval survival depends on relative humidity and temperatures. Since dehydration is fatal to flea larvae, they will not survive relative humidity less than 45-50 percent or soil temperatures greater than 95 degrees Fahrenheit. However, if outdoor larvae will survive in cool, shaded areas and do very well in crawl spaces. In environments of suitable humidity and temperatures, fleas will develop year round. 

Flea larvae complete three larval instars (stages) and, depending on their environment, will range in length from about 3-5 mm long. Flea larvae have no eyes and no legs. Their body is maggot-like and whitish, but turns progressively darker as the larvae feeds on feces excreted by the adult fleas. Other than feces, larvae will feed on various types of organic matter such as food particles, dead skin, dead insects and feathers. Flea larvae do not take a blood meal directly from a host, unlike adult fleas. The flea’s larval stage is completed within about 4-18 days. One of the last activities of flea larvae is to spin a silken cocoon and then enter the pupal stage.

Controlling flea larvae usually involves using vacuums to remove, use of insect growth regulators and dust formulations that cause desiccation of the larvae. 

Adults

Adult fleas begin searching for food when they emerge from the pupal stage. While fleas are noted for their jumping abilities, they will remain stationery when a suitable host is located. Females begin laying eggs within 48 hours of the first feed, thus beginning the life cycle again.

Cold environments cause eggs to perish before hatching. Humidity below 45 percent will kill larvae. Fleas in the pupal stage will become adults more rapidly in the presence of warmth and high humidity.

How To Identify and Manage a Flea Problem

How To Identify and Manage a Flea Problem
Since fleas are relatively easy to see in their adult stage, most of the attention is directed at adult fleas. Adult fleas are usually easy to locate, especially if the homeowner and their pets return to the house after a long vacation or other absence during which the resident flea adults were not able to take a blood meal. Upon returning, the homeowners are often greeted by fleas jumping around and trying to land on them and their pets.

The flea eggs, larvae and pupae are another situation. Since these stages are much more secretive and much less active, they are found in out-of-the-way places like behind, under or in the furniture; in the pet’s bedding; inside cracks and grooves in the floors; and in the carpets. Flea eggs that were deposited by the female adult, fall off your pets as they move, allowing them to be disbursed throughout the environment where a pet spends time. Flea eggs represent about one-half of the entire flea population present in an average home. Larvae make up about 35 percent of the flea population.

If conditions are favorable, the larvae will spin cocoons in about 5-20 days after hatching from their eggs. The cocoons are the flea’s pupal stage and account for about 10 percent of the flea population. This cocoon stage is the last developmental stage before the adult flea emerges. If environmental conditions are not right for emergence, the cocoon can protect the developing flea adult for months or even longer. The adult flea does not emerge until a potential host is detected by vibration, rising levels of carbon dioxide and body heat associated with the host. A pet walking by, or people moving in the house alert the flea to emerge from its cocoon to feed. Once a flea has emerged from the cocoon, it will begin taking a blood meal on a host within 24-48 hours. Shortly after the first meal, adult fleas will mate and the female fleas begin laying eggs on her host within a few days. Female fleas are not able to lay eggs until they obtain a blood meal.

Signs of  Fleas

Many signs can indicate flea activity.  A common indication would be pets that repeatedly scratch and groom themselves. This is caused by the discomfort of the flea activity as the adult fleas feed on the pet’s blood. People also may experience bites which leave behind itchy bite marks (a medical doctor can be consulted, since there are other sources of skin irritation beside fleas). Flea dirt, the adult flea feces, also can indicate activity. Flea dirt looks similar to coarse ground black pepper and may be seen in pet beds, carpets, rugs and other areas where the animal host rests.

Fleas in bedding?

Fleas are not usually found infesting a homeowner’s beds and bedding. Fleas that are observed in beds and bedding are most likely there only to take a blood meal or were perhaps dislodged from the animal if the pet is allowed to sleep in the same bed as the homeowner. However, if the homeowner does not wash and change the bedding for a long while, it is possible that the immature stages of the fleas could possibly take up residence in a bed or bedding. The more likely situation is that flea eggs, larvae and pupae are living under the bed or, even more likely, are living in the bed and bedding of the household pet(s).

Flea Facts

Flea Facts

Appearance

• Adults small, wingless, about 2.5 mm long.
• Their bodies are shiny and reddish brown in color.
• Covered with microscopic hair and are compressed to allow for easy movement through animal fur.

Behavior, Diet & Habits

Adults are parasites that draw blood from a host. Larvae feed on organic debris, particularly the feces of adult fleas, which contain undigested blood. Fleas commonly prefer to feed on hairy animals such as dogs, cats, rabbits, squirrels, rats, mice and other domesticated or wild animals. Fleas do not have wings, although they are capable of jumping long distances.

Reproduction

Eggs are not attached to the host. Eggs will hatch on the ground, in rugs, carpet, bedding, upholstery or cracks in the floor. Most hatch within two days. Read more about the life cycle of fleas in a coming up blog!

Most Common Winter Pests

As too many too often learn, such pests don't go completely inactive in the winter. In fact, when it is cold and wet or snowy outside, pests are even more likely to seek the warmth and shelter of the indoors.

Following are brief descriptions of some of the most common winter pests and links to articles with guidance for control:

1. Winged Carpenter Ants - Flying ants in the home are rarely a good sign, and this is particularly true if they are seen indoors during the winter. Finding a winged ant or two indoors during the summer does not necessarily mean there is a problem, but if winged ants are seen in the home during the winter months, there is a strong likelihood that there is a carpenter ant nest within the structure.
2. Cluster Fly - Homeowners generally expect to have to swat a fly or two in the house during the summer months.But what is an expected annoyance in the summer can be exasperating in the winter when doors and windows are sealed tight, and one wouldn't think that any flies are existing in the cold outdoors to come inside. So where are they coming from?
3. Mice - A wily, curious creature, the house mouse is the most common of home-invading mice. Cute, perhaps, in a cage in the pet store, but not so cute when it decides to make your house its home.
4. Rats - Two species of rodents are most common in the U.S.: the Norway rat and the roof rat. Along with the common house mouse, both rats are believed to have been brought to the U.S. aboard ships bound for the New World in the 17th and 18th centuries.
5. Bed bugs - For decades, the saying “Sleep tight, don’t let the bed bugs bite” was a fairly meaningless lights-out phrase for kids in the U.S. But within the last few years, bed bugs have reappeared, causing sleepless nights for homeowners and hotel owners alike.
6. Fruit Fly - The fruit fly is one of the most common, and one of the smallest flies found in the home. It is often unknowingly brought into the home on fresh fruits and vegetables. 
7. Moth Fly - Moth flies (Psychoda sp.) are a common small fly generally seen buzzing around drains - thus its common name of drain fly. Though it causes no real damage, its high numbers can cause it to become a nuisance pest in or around the home.
8. Spiders - There are more than 35,000 known spider species in the world, with only about a tenth (3,500) of those appearing in the U.S. and often only one tenth (350) of those in any single region. In general, spiders are beneficial creatures, preying and feeding on flies, crickets, mites, and other household and yard pests. Most are completely harmless to humans. But when they get into your home, they can definitely be a nuisance.
9. Overwintering Insects - Any discussion of insects over the winter is likely to elicit the term "overwintering." While its meaning can be as simple as indicating how an insect (or other animal or plant) spends its time over the winter, it more frequently is used to refer to a sort of hibernation undertaken by insects in order to survive the cold temperatures.
10.  Firewood Pests - A wood-burning stove or fireplace can bring a great deal of warmth, comfort and pleasing aesthetics into a home. However the firewood that is brought into the home for that fire can also bring with it a number of household pests.

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Winterize Your Home and Keep Pests Out

Eliminate Habitat

Inspect your home’s exterior to locate and remove potential pest and insect habitats. Typically, insects seek areas that offer moisture, food and shelter – places to rest, reproduce or hide from predators.

So think like an insect. Look for bug-size bridges, things that could give nonflying pests a leg up onto your home’s structure. Also scout for places of refuge, spots where pests can hide out. Take the following home pest control measures to minimize pest and insect invasions:

• Clean out gutters and downspouts. Accumulated debris can provide habitat for insects.
• Check downspouts to ensure they direct all water away from your home.
• Eliminate debris resting against or near the house, including rock or compost piles, old boards, or bricks.
• Store firewood outdoors and away from the house.
• Pull mulch back so it’s not resting against the house.
• Store trash cans away from your home. Trash offers a food source that’s appealing to insects and other vermin. Keep cans tightly closed at all times.
• Shift plantings so they’re not directly touching the foundation. Prune tree limbs that overhang gutters or roof lines, and trim shrubs that rub against a wall, porch or deck.
• Remove autumn leaves that collect against the house, porch and other outside structures.
• Replace exterior lights. Trade traditional bulbs, which lure insects, with yellow or sodium vapor lights.

Seal Openings

Inspect your home’s exterior carefully and take steps to seal any openings you find. This not only can help keep insect pests out, but also can help keep the heat in and cold air out.

• Replace screens with storm windows. If you leave screens in year-round, make sure they fit tightly and don’t have holes, tears or other openings.
• Check seals around entry doors and crawl space openings. Replace worn weather stripping and caulk or repair as needed.
• Inspect basement windows. If concrete is chipping or broken, replace it.
• Examine the foundation. Seal cracks and crevices with caulk or concrete. Stuff steel wool into holes.
• Look at eaves and facia boards carefully, and examine flashing. Damp wood is an invitation to insect pests. Replace any rotting wood.
• Double-check attic vents to ensure seals are tight.

Information on Disease from Rats - Part 2

Diseases Directly Transmitted by Rats

• Hantavirus Pulmonary Syndrome. This is a viral disease that is transmitted by the rice rat. This disease is spread in one of three ways: inhaling dust that is contaminated with rat urine or droppings, direct contact with rat feces or urine, and infrequently due to the bite of rat.
• Leptospirosis. This is a bacterial disease that can be transmitted by coming into contact with infected water by swimming, wading or kayaking or by contaminated drinking water. Individuals may be at increased risk of Leptospirosis infections if they work outdoors or with animals.
• Rat-bite Fever. This disease may be transmitted through a bite, scratch or contact with a dead rat.
• Salmonellosis. Consuming food or water that is contaminated by rat feces bacteria can cause this disease.

Diseases Indirectly Transmitted by Rats

• Plague. This disease is carried by rats and transmitted by fleas in the process of taking a blood meal. Domestic rats are the most common reservoir of plague.
• Colorado Tick Fever. This is a viral disease that is transmitted by the bite of a tick that has taken a blood meal from a bushy-tailed woodrat.
• Cutaneous Leishmaniasis. This disease is a parasite that is transmitted to a person by the bite of an infected sand fly that has fed on a wild woodrat.

Hantavirus

Some species of rats such as the cotton rat or rice rat are known carriers of hantavirus. Norway rats and roof rats are not known transmitters of hantavirus. Victims may be debilitated and can experience difficulty breathing. Hantavirus is transmitted to humans when they inhale airborne particles from rodent droppings, urine or carcasses that have been disturbed.

The first symptoms of the virus can be mistaken for the flu. Patients then suffer breathing difficulties that may prove fatal if not treated effectively and immediately.

In order to avoid hantavirus, all mouse feces, nest materials and dead rodents must be removed from the home. Spray suspected areas thoroughly with disinfectant before sweeping to avoid having anything become airborne. Use gloves to handle rodent carcasses or droppings and a respirator must be worn with functioning cartridges. Buildings should be aired out following an infestation. Not all rodents have been found to carry hantavirus. Deer mice, cotton rats, rice rats and white-footed mice are the most common transmitters. However, everyone should use caution in dealing with rodents or rodent infestations and contact a pest control professional.

Information on Diseases from Rats - Part 1

Information on Diseases from Rats - Part 1

Rat bites and scratches can result in disease and rat-bite fever. Rat urine is responsible for the spread of leptospirosis, which can result in liver and kidney damage. It can also be contracted through handling or inhalation of scat. Complications include renal and liver failure, as well as cardiovascular problems.

Lymphocytic choriomeningitis (LCMV), a viral infectious disease, is transmitted through the saliva and urine of rats. Some individuals experience long-term effects of lymphocytic choriomeningitis, while others experience only temporary discomfort.

One of the most historically dangerous rat-borne diseases is the bubonic plague, also called “Black Plague,” and its variants. Transfer occurs when fleas from the rats bite human beings. Fleas transported on rats are considered responsible for this plague during the Middle Ages, which killed millions. From the transmission of bubonic plague to typhus and hantavirus, rat infestations can prove harmful to human health.

Rats also are a potential source of allergens. Their droppings, dander and shed hair can cause people to sneeze and experience other allergic reactions.

Diseases transmitted by rats fall into one of two categories: diseases transmitted directly from exposure to rat-infected feces, urine or bites and diseases indirectly transmitted to people by an intermediate arthropod vector such as fleas, ticks or mites. While the following list of diseases or medical conditions are all associated with rats, most are not commonly encountered in the United States.

Behavior, Diet and Habitat of Rats

Rat Behavior - When rat populations are large, a hierarchy develops within a burrow. Stronger individuals become dominant, while weaker ones are subordinate. Males no longer protect female burrows. When a female is estrous, several males mate with her sequentially, in the order of their social dominance.

Rats exhibit aggressive behavior when threatened. They may fight, chase, bite and box. Rats also display some behaviors such as sidling and belly-up defensive postures.

Rats dwell in cities, suburbs and rural areas. They are capable of thriving in human environments are therefore are considered a commensal rodent. Rats are known to travel great distances and are wary of unknown objects in their established foraging paths. This skepticism can make trapping a rat particularly difficult for a homeowner.

Rat Diet - Rats are fairly opportunistic feeders. They will feed on a array of items from carcasses to fallen fruit. Human environments provide them an abundance of resources. Particular species of rat may have tendency for certain foods. Norway rats often prefer foods high in protein such as meat scraps or pet food. Roof rats usually prefer fruit, which is why people often refer to them as fruit rats. They may be attracted to areas with fruit tress.

When living near humans, the availability of foods will drive a rodent’s habits. They often will travel outdoors and indoors searching for nutrition. They can take advantage of many food sources such as garbage cans, open containers of food, pet food bowls, and they will even cannibalize their own dead. Homeowners should try to eliminate or minimize the abundance of rodent food sources as well as contacting a pest control professional.

Rat Habitat - Rat species are either terrestrial or arboreal in nature, although rats preferring one habitat are capable of inhabiting others. The Norway rat and roof rat are the two most common North American rat species. They are terrestrial and arboreal, respectively.

 Norway rats are most commonly burrowers. They build their nests outside the walls of homes or in various clumps of vegetation. Norway rats may also construct their homes beneath the edges of sidewalks or patios.

As is implied by their name, roof rats prefer arboreal habitats. They live in yucca, palm and cypress trees, as well as in elevated areas of human homes. Roof rats can be found living in attics, rafters, eaves and on roofs. They may also choose to nest in nonarboreal vegetation, such as shrubs, honeysuckle and tall grasses.

Rats

Rats

The most common rats are the black or roof rat and the brown Norway rat. Both species typically live a year or less and can grow in excess of 40 cm.

Effective rat control begins with prevention. All possible entry points, such as sewers and air vents, should be sealed against rodents. Rats can enter through a hole as small as a quarter (25¢), so even very small holes should be sealed. Rats often enter by climbing trees and coming through broken screens or vents.

In order to address an existing rat population, it is necessary to identify and eliminate their feeding, drinking and dwelling sites. Pet food is an incentive for rodents and should be kept in tightly sealed containers. All human food should be stored likewise. Any standing water or moisture leaks should be addressed. Trash should be disposed of properly, and sanitary conditions should be observed. Wood piles and other rodent shelter sites such overgrown weedy areas should be eliminated.

Various rat traps and possible rodenticides are commercially available. However, because rats tend to avoid unfamiliar objects, it is often necessary to enlist the services of a local pest control professional when attempting to control an existing rat population.

Rats are responsible for having been carriers of fleas which spread deadly plagues throughout history. They are still known to be carriers of various diseases. 

Following our blog to learn more about rats!

More Information about House Mice

House Mouse Control Tips

To prevent mice from entering the home, all cracks, crevices, holes and gaps larger than a pen cap should be sealed with cement or a mixing compound. It is not advised that wood be used to seal these holes, as mice are capable of chewing through those surfaces.

Cleanliness may also have an effect on pest infestations. Be sure to wash dishes immediately following use. Food should be stored in glass or metal containers with tight lids. Mice acquire most of their water from scavenged food particles and no crumbs or morsels should be left on tabletops or floors.

When a home is already infested, prevention methods prove inefficient. The most effective mouse control methods are those administered by trainedprofessionals.

More Information on the Common House Mouse

The house mouse is a small mammal named for its propensity to live within human habitats. Next to humans, the common house mouse is one of the most prevalent mammalian species in the world. Native to Asia, these rodents have spread throughout the world. They are most commonly seen living within or near human habitations. They may also be used as laboratory subjects and contribute greatly to scientific studies.

House mice walk, run and stand on all fours. They can stand on the hind legs, as well, and are supported by the tail, which also provides balance while in motion. The house mouse has a sharp sense of hearing and communicates with other house mice through squeaks. Some of these squeaks are audible to humans, while others extend into the ultrasonic range. The common house mouse weighs between 12 to 22 grams and may grow up 20 cm in length. They are black to light brown or gray in color, with short hair and lighter bellies

Signs of a House Mouse Infestation

Signs of a House Mouse Infestation


Sightings - Although more commonly active in the evening, it is possible to see a house mouse roaming in your home during the day. Most often these animals are spotted scurrying along walls or running from a normally undisturbed hiding place.

Droppings - Where there are mice, there are droppings. These small pellets are commonly found anywhere the animals have visited or traveled. Approximately 3 to 6 mm long, the droppings may be rod shaped with pointed ends.

People may confuse house mouse droppings with those of the American cockroach. Even though the general size and appearance of these droppings are similar, mouse droppings usually have hair embedded in them from where the mice have groomed themselves. Roach droppings also are not pointed and usually have ridges running down the sides.

Footprints - As mice explore their territories, they often leave behind footprints or tracks on surfaces. The distinct pattern of a four-toed front foot and a five-toed back footprint are a clear sign that a mouse has passed by.

Gnawing/Chewing - House mice are known for their ability to chew on a wide variety of items. In most cases, shavings and a fresh accumulation of debris is often the first indication of damage. Teeth and gnaw marks can also be found along the edges of frequently traveled routes, on the corners of objects or creating openings into an area.

Burrows/Tunnels - House mice tend to build nests in material that provides a dark and protective environment, such as insulation and other soft materials. These nests are often characterized by openings or tunnels that are free of dust and cobwebs, but may be littered with droppings.

Sounds - During the evening hours, especially when it is dark and quiet, these small animals can often be heard gnawing and scratching within the walls, running across the ceiling and possibly squeaking.

Odor - House mouse urine plays an important role in communicating with other rodents. Oftentimes, rodents will mark an area to attract females or warn off other males. A distinct odor may become noticeable in an area with a large rodent population or when rodents have been present for a long period of time.

Facts about House Mice

House Mice

Appearance - House mice are covered in short hair that is light brown or gray to black in color, with lighter bellies. Their ears and tail also bear hair, although much less than their bodies. Adult mice weigh approximately 12 to 30 grams and can grow up to 20 cm from the nose to the tip of the tail. Droppings are rod-shaped and pointed on both ends.

Behavior, Diet & Habits - Normally, the house mouse makes its home in farm fields, grassy and wooded areas, building nests in areas that are dark and protected from the elements and close to a readily available food source.

Very inquisitive in nature, the house mouse will spend the day roaming its territory, exploring anything new or out of the ordinary. When available, the house mouse prefers seeds and nuts in its diet, but this opportunistic feeder will eat almost anything available.

When the temperatures outside begin to drop, house mice, since they don’t hibernate, begin searching for a warmer place to live. Often attracted by the smell of food and the warmth of a structure, the house mouse can use any opening, such as utility lines, pipe openings, and gaps beneath doors, to gain entry into a home.

Reproduction - The house mouse is known for its ability to reproduce very quickly. A single female is capable of producing up to eight litters per year with an average of six pups per litter. After a 21-day pregnancy, these house mouse pups are born naked, blind and dependent upon their mother for everything. At about 21 days the young are weaned from their mother and may begin to take short trips away from the nest to explore their surroundings. Most mice reach sexual maturity at about 35 days of age and begin mating when they are six weeks old.

Black Widow Spider

Black Widow Spider

The Black Widow spider is the most poisonous spider in North America, but only the adult female.

The female Black Widow is easy to recognize (if you care to get that close) by the red hourglass shape on the underneath part of her abdomen. She has a shiny black body with various types of red markings on the top, depending on the species. There are about five species of Black Widow spiders in North America.

The black widow will grow to about 8-10mm.

Black Widows will lay up to 400 eggs at a time, but they are known to be cannibals, which means that they will eat each other. The Black Widow has unfairly earned a bad reputation for wanting to eat her mate. She will only eat her mate when she mistakes him for a meal!

The silk of this spider is known to be the strongest of all silk. The Black Widow spider does not spin the pretty webs, instead she will spin the thick jumbles looking cobweb. These webs catch beetles, flies, grasshoppers, moths and other spiders.

These spiders, although a little scary, have enemies, as well. A few wasps can sting and paralyze, before eating the Black Widow. She is also a favorite food of the Praying Mantis. Some birds will eat these spiders but could end up with an upset stomach from her poisons. The bright red markings on her belly will warn possible predators that she is a nasty meal.

German Cockroach Facts

Appearance

German cockroaches are well-known indoor cockroaches with a distribution that is world-wide. Adults are easily recognized by their light brown or tan coloration with two black horizontal stripes located on the pronotum immediately behind the head, and growing to a length of 13-16 mm. The much smaller young, or nymphs, are darker, almost black in color, also with the black stripes behind the head. While adult German cockroaches have wings, they rarely fly, preferring to run.

Behavior, Diet & Habits

Although capable of living outdoors in tropical environments, German cockroaches are most commonly found indoors, with a preference for the warmer and more humid areas of a structure. In homes, these insects will typically be found in kitchens and bathrooms, but can move to other areas of a home if food and moisture are available.

In most cases, German cockroaches are introduced into a structure or residence when bags, boxes or cardboard containers are brought into the home. They may even be brought in with used appliances. In multiunit apartment buildings, German cockroaches can easily move between units, using the shared plumbing and pipes as a highway.

German cockroaches are scavengers, capable of feeding on most any food source available, including toothpaste, soap and the bindings of books. These pests are known for their ability to capitalize on the availability of even the smallest amounts of food by feeding on crumbs missed during cleaning or feeding on the dirty dishes left in the sink overnight.

Reproduction

German cockroaches are known for their ability to reproduce quickly. Female German cockroaches only need to mate once for the production of young. After mating, and under normal conditions, they will produce, on average, 4 to 6 egg cases during the course of their lives, with each egg case, or ootheca, containing approximately 30 to 40 eggs. This egg case is then carried by the female until 1 to 2 days before hatching. Depending upon the conditions, the average time for development, from egg to adult can range from 54 to 215 days, with an average of approximately 100 days. As adults, German cockroaches can survive anywhere from 100 to 200 days

Things to Know About Brown Recluses

Life Cycle:

Adult brown recluse spiders often live about one to two years. Each female produces several egg sacs over a period of two to three months, from May to July, with approximately fifty eggs in each sac. The eggs hatch in about one month. The spiderlings take about one year to grow to adulthood. The brown recluse spider is resilient and can tolerate up to six months of extreme drought and scarcity or absence of food. On one occasion it survived in controlled captivity for over five seasons without food.

Behavior:

A brown recluse's stance on a flat surface is usually with all legs radially extended. When alarmed it may lower its body, withdraw the forward two legs straight rearward into a defensive position, withdraw the rearmost pair of legs into a position for lunging forward, and stand motionless with pedipalps raised. The pedipalps in mature specimens are dark, quite prominent, and are normally held horizontally forward. When threatened it usually flees, seemingly to avoid a conflict, and if detained may further avoid contact with quick horizontal rotating movements. The spider does not usually jump unless touched brusquely, and even then its avoidance movement is more of a horizontal lunge rather than a vaulting of itself entirely off the surface. When running the brown recluse does not leave a silk line behind, which would make it more easily tracked when it is being pursued. Movement at virtually any speed is an evenly paced gait with legs extended. When missing a leg or two it appears to favor this same gait, although (presumably when a leg has been injured) it may move and stand at rest with one leg slightly withdrawn. During travel it stops naturally and periodically when renewing its internal hydraulic blood pressure that it requires to renew strength in its legs.

Habitat:

Brown recluse spiders build asymmetrical (irregular) webs that frequently include a shelter consisting of disorderly thread. They frequently build their webs in woodpiles and sheds, closets, garages, plenum spaces, cellars, and other places that are dry and generally undisturbed. When dwelling in human residences they seem to favor cardboard, possibly because it mimics the rotting tree bark which they inhabit naturally. They have also been encountered in shoes, inside dressers, in bed sheets of infrequently used beds, in clothes stacked or piled or left lying on the floor, inside work gloves, behind baseboards and pictures, in toilets, and near sources of warmth when ambient temperatures are lower than usual. Human-recluse contact often occurs when such isolated spaces are disturbed and the spider feels threatened. Unlike most web weavers, they leave these lairs at night to hunt. Males move around more when hunting than do females, which tend to remain nearer to their webs. The spider will hunt for firebrats, crickets, cockroaches, and other soft-bodied insects.

How to Identify a Brown Recluse Spider

5 Identifying Features of a Brown Recluse Spider

1 Look at the color. A brown recluse has a dirt or sandy brown body with a slightly darker marking at its center. Its legs are a lighter brown and completely uniform in color, with no additional markings.

2  Examine the violin shape on the spider's body. It's a slightly darker brown color than the rest of the body, or cephalothorax. The violin shape isn't clearly defined, so it may not look to you exactly like the musical instrument.

3 Count the eyes. The brown recluse, unlike other spiders, has only six eyes. They are arranged in pairs: one pair is in the center, and there's a pair on either side. Because the eyes are so small, it can be difficult to see them without a magnifying glass. If you count eight eyes, you're not looking at a recluse.

4  Look for fine hairs. The brown recluse has many fine, short hairs on its body. Unlike some other spiders, it does not have spines on its body or legs. If you see a spider with spines, it's definitely not a recluse.

5  Check the body width. The brown recluse's body doesn't grow to be larger than ¹⁄₂ inch (1.3 cm). If you're looking at a spider that's larger than this, it's a different type of spider.

Bed Bug Behavior and Habit

Bed Bug Behavior and Habit

Understanding how bed bugs eat, live, and reproduce will help you find an infestation before it has a chance to spread and to monitor for the presence of the bed bugs after your home has been treated.

Feeding:

• Appear to prefer to feed on humans, but will feed on other mammals and birds
• Will readily travel 5-20 feet from hiding places to feed on host
• Even though they are primarily active at night, if hungry they will seek hosts in daylight
• Feeding can take 3-12 minutes
• The rusty or tarry spots found on bed sheets or in bug hiding places are because 20% of the time adults and large nymphs will void remains of earlier blood meals while still feeding

Life Stages/mating:

• Bed bugs need at least one blood meal before the bug can develop to the next life stage
• Each stage requires the molting of skin
• To continue to mate and produce eggs, both males and females must feed at least once every 14 days
• Each female may lay 1-3 eggs per day and 200-500 eggs per her lifetime (6-12 months)
• Egg to egg life cycle may take 4 to 5 weeks under favorable conditions

Living conditions:

• Bed bugs can survive and remain active at temperatures as low as 46 F, but they die when their body temperatures reach 113 F. To kill bed bugs with heat, the room must be even hotter to ensure sustained heat reaches the bugs no matter where they are hiding
• Common bed bugs are found almost anywhere their host can live

How to Find Bed Bugs

How to Find Bed Bugs

If you have an infestation, it is best to find out early on, before the infestation has a chance to spread. Treating a minor infestation is far less costly and easier than treating the same infestation after it becomes more widespread.

Low-level infestations are much more challenging to find and correctly identify. Other insects can be easily mistaken for bed bugs. If you misidentifying a bed bug infestation, it gives the bugs more time to spread to other areas of the house or hitchhike a ride to someone else's house to start a new infestation.

Bites on the skin are a poor indicator of a bed bug infestation. Bed bug bites can look like bites from other insects, rashes, or even hives. Some people do not react to bed bug bites at all.

Signs of a Bed Bugs

An accurate way to identify a possible infestation is to look for physical signs of bed bugs. When cleaning, changing bedding, or staying away from home, look for the following:

• Rusty or reddish stains on bed sheets or mattresses caused by bed bugs being crushed
• Dark spots, which are bed bug excrement and may bleed on the fabric like a marker would
• Eggs and eggshells, which are tiny and pale yellow skins that nymphs shed as they grow
• Live bed bugs

Where Bed Bugs Hide

When bed bugs are not feeding, they hide in a variety of places. Around the bed, they can be found near the piping, seams and tags of mattress and box spring, and in cracks on the bed frame and headboard.

If the room is heavily infested, you may also find them in the following areas:

• In the seams of chairs and couches
• Folds of curtains
• In drawer joints
• In electricity receptacles and appliances
• Under loose wall paper and other wall hangings
• At the junction where the wall and the ceiling meet

Since bed bugs are only about the width of a credit car, they can squeeze into really small hiding spots. If a crack will hold a credit card, it can hide a bed bug.

Bed Bug Life Cycle

Bed Bug Life Cycle

 The life cycle of a bed bug is shown in the photograph below. During its lifetime, a bed bug will go through the following stages (starting from the top left, moving counterclockwise):

• Eggs (1 mm)
• 1st stage nymph (1.5 mm)
• 2nd stage nymph (2 mm)
• 3rd stage nymph (2.5 mm)
• 4th stage nymph (3 mm)
• 5th stage nymph (3.5 mm)
• Unfed adult
• Fed adult

A female bed bug can lay 1-5 eggs per day in cracks and crevices. Their development time is 21 days. The average life span is 6-12 months and they will feed every 10 days or so during this time. Bed bugs can survive many months without a blood meal and the reproduce in an unusual fashion. Instead of copulation by connection of genitals, bed bug males traumatically inseminate the females. This is accomplished by the male piercing her body with his syringe like genitalia and injecting her with sperm. This is not especially good for the females as they are more prone to damage or infection from such occurrences.

Bed Bugs Appearance

Bed Bugs Appearance

Adult bed bugs, in general, are:

• about the size of an apple seed (5-7 mm or 3/16 - 1/4 inch long)
• long and brown, with a flat, oval shaped body
• balloon like, reddish brown, and more elongated
• a "true bug" (include a beak with three segments; antenna with four parts; wings not used for flying; and short, golden-colored hairs)
• smelly, with a musty sweetish odor

Young bed bugs, in general, are:

• smaller, translucent or whitish-yellow in color
• if not recently fed, can be nearly invisible to the naked eye because of coloring and size

Bed bugs eggs, in general, are:

• tiny, the size of a pinhead
• pearl-white in color
• marked by an eye spot if more than five days old

Bed Bugs

Introduction to Bed Bugs

The common bed bug has been a pest for years. They feed on blood, cause itchy bites and generally irritating their human host. Most public health agencies consider bed bugs a public health pest. Unlike most public health pests, bed bugs are not known to transmit or spread disease. However, they can cause other public health issues, so it is important to pay close attention to preventing and controlling bed bugs.

Experts believe the recent increase in the bed bugs in the United States may be due to more travel, lack of knowledge about preventing infestation, increased resistance of bed bugs pesticide products, and ineffective pest control practices. The good news is that there are ways to control bed bugs. While there is no chemical quick fix, there are effective strategies to control bed begs involving both non-chemical and chemical methods.

Bed bugs can be hard to find and identify, given their small size and their habit of staying hidden. It helps to know what to look for, since the various life stages have different forms. Follow our blog for more information on bed bugs appearance and life cycle.

Swarmer Ants

Swarmer Ants

Many ant species exist and you may have them around your home making mounds in the lawn or dirt piles on your driveway. As part of their seasonal activity, ants will produce a swarm of winged flying ants, known as swarmer ants. Swarming is also known as reproductive flight, as the ants are out to start new colonies. It is important to be able to tell a swarmer ant from a termite, as the latter could represent a problem.

Swarm Season

Swarming is seasonal, often taking place in the spring, and can occur once to a few times a year. It typically lasts for one day and happens simultaneously for all colonies in an area, which increases the chance of a queen finding a mate from a different colony. Most ant species release swarmers in the late afternoon, typically after a shower of rain followed by sun. Pavement ants and carpenter ants often release as th sun is setting.

Recognizing Swarmer Ants

You can determine if a winged insect is a swarmer ant or a termite in a few different ways, though they are similar in size. Ants have a pinched-in waistline, antennae with a bend in the middle and two long and two short wings. Termites have fairly straight sides, antennae that are flexible along their entire length and appear either straight or slightly curved, and wings that are fairly equal in length. Swarmer ants are usually larger than the worker ants from their colony.

Termite Life Cycle

Termite Life Cycle

The model of a termite life cycle shows the three stages; the reproductives, the soldiers and the workers.

Reproductives possess compound eyes and are more or less brown due to their sclerotized cuticle. Developing reproductives have wings, wing stumps or wing buds. Reproductives can be further divided as follows:

• Alates, the young winged reproductives of both sexes. During swarm season 100 to 1000 alates leave the colony for mating and colonising flight. After mating a pair settle down at a suitable site to establish a new colony.
• De-alates, alates cast their wings after the colonising flight and turn into queens and kings. Only a few eggs are laid and brought up by a female de-alate. As the number of termites in the colony grows, the more workers are available to help the queen to care for the colony.
• Queen and King, are the main reproductive termites on a colony. A large queen may lay more than 1000 eggs per day. The life span of a queen can be as much as 50 years.
• Neotenics assist the queen in laying eggs, once her productivity decreases. When the queen has died, one of the neotenics takes her place.

Workers are sterile, wingless and blind males and females. Their cuticle is up pigmented and not hardened, therefore the termites are confined to a dark, moist environment. Workers build the nest and galleries, they fetch food and care for the colony. A worker's life span is only 1 to 2 years.

Soldiers are also sterile, wingless and blind males and females with an unpigmented, unsclerotized cuticle. Soldiers defend the colony from intruders by use of powerful jaws and by injecting a white sticky repellent from an opening in their head. Usually the number of soldiers is much smaller than the number of workers. The life span of a soldier is 1 to 2 years.

Termite Sawrmer Identification

Termite Swarmer Identification

Termites are not difficult to identify; however, people often mistake winged ants for termites and become unnecessarily alarmed. Actually, the difference is quite pronounced. An alate or "swarmer" of the most common termites is generally black. It has a rather straight body, straight antennae and four cloudy white wings of equal length that are twice as long as the body.  The flying ants may be similar in color but have a distinctive pinched waist (the joint between the thorax and abdomen) and four unequal length wings that are not quite as long as the body. Ant antennae also bend sharply in the middle. Both termites and ants can lose their wings shortly after emerging, so it is common to find reproductive termites and ants without wings in the same area as the swarmers. For more information about termites and ants, please continue to follow our blog.