More Information on Fleas

Can fleas fly?
Fleas do not fly and are wingless as adults. Their preferred method of movement is for the adults to jump onto a host when that animal passes close by. Flea larvae are mobile and will move slowly from one location to another by crawling. The main reasons flea larvae move are to locate food and a protective, shaded, moist location that is favorable to the flea larvae’s survival.

Do fleas carry disease?
Yes, fleas can transmit diseases when taking a blood meal from a host or via contaminated fecal pellets. Some flea-borne diseases include:

• Plague – transmitted by the Oriental rat flea
• Flea-borne typhus, also known as murine typhus – transmitted by the bacteria-infested feces of infected cat fleas when they enter the body at the time of the flea’s bite or from scratching the area of the bite.
• Bartonellosis –Oriental rat flea and cat flea bites may transmit cat scratch disease.
• Flea tapeworm – can be transmitted if children accidently eat an infected flea or contact infected feces.
• Tungiasis – a tropical area ailment that is caused by the chigoe flea (Tunga penetrans) when it burrows into the skin and takes a blood meal. As the adult female feeds, she grows larger due to the development of her eggs. The bite of the chigoe flea often results in secondary infections and itching.

Flea Bites

Flea bites result in red spots surrounded by reddened haloes. They are extremely itchy and cause great discomfort. Fleas often target the legs and feet of human victims and may infest the entire bodies of domestic house pets. Many wildlife species carry fleas as well. If these animals are associated around ones home, fleas may migrate to pets and humans. Be aware that other causes may result in human skin irritation, including other pests, allergic reactions to medications or even ingrown hairs.

In some pets flea saliva can cause allergic reactions such as FAD, and increased scratching can result in hair loss and secondary infections. In more severe cases, affected pet skin thickens and sores appear.

Flea Treatment

Flea Treatment

Since the immature stages of fleas are very cryptic by nature, the first thing the homeowner should do is contact our office for assistance. Most of the time simply using over-the-counter products for controlling fleas will not resolve the root causes of the infestation. Your pest management professional will conduct a thorough inspection and locate areas where the immature stages of the flea population are residing. After completing the inspection, the next step is preparing the flea management plan. This plan will include:

• Identifying the flea species causing the problem.
• Education explaining the flea’s life cycle and how their habits, habitat and behavior affects the control plan.
• Inspecting for the presence of other animals that are the flea population’s source of food. This may include rodents either inside or outside the home or perhaps a raccoon or feral cat that is living in the crawl space.
• Homeowner contacting their veterinarian for advice and purchase of flea control products that can be used on pets.
• Regular bathing and grooming of pets.
• Explaining the use of growth regulators that will interfere with the flea’s normal development into the adult stage.
• Using a strong vacuum to physically remove flea eggs, larvae, pupae and adults.
• Frequently washing and drying pet bedding.
• Treating affected areas by using safe and effective flea control products where immature fleas may be located.
• Scheduling a follow-up visit.

Life Cycle of Fleas

Fleas undergo complete metamorphosis. The life cycle, or stages, of the flea is composed of the egg, larval, pupal and adult stages. Cycle length ranges from several weeks to several months and is largely dependent upon environmental conditions.

Eggs

Fleas lay between four to eight eggs after a meal, with the highest concentrations of laying occurring within the last few days of the female’s life. Unlike the eggs of some other parasites, flea eggs are not sticky and usually fall to the ground immediately upon being laid. Flea eggs hatch into larvae within one to 12 days. 

Larvae

Flea larvae are approximately 3 to 5.2 mm long and are semitransparent white in color. The larval stage lasts from four to 18 days, after which larvae spin silken cocoons and enter the pupal stage. The pupal stage may be complete within three days, or it can last as long as one year.

Flea larvae hatch from eggs that were laid by a female flea and have fallen off the animal host. Once away from the host, the larvae seek out shaded locations such as cracks in the floor, in carpets, in pet bedding or protected locations under and in furniture. Flea larval survival depends on relative humidity and temperatures. Since dehydration is fatal to flea larvae, they will not survive relative humidity less than 45-50 percent or soil temperatures greater than 95 degrees Fahrenheit. However, if outdoor larvae will survive in cool, shaded areas and do very well in crawl spaces. In environments of suitable humidity and temperatures, fleas will develop year round. 

Flea larvae complete three larval instars (stages) and, depending on their environment, will range in length from about 3-5 mm long. Flea larvae have no eyes and no legs. Their body is maggot-like and whitish, but turns progressively darker as the larvae feeds on feces excreted by the adult fleas. Other than feces, larvae will feed on various types of organic matter such as food particles, dead skin, dead insects and feathers. Flea larvae do not take a blood meal directly from a host, unlike adult fleas. The flea’s larval stage is completed within about 4-18 days. One of the last activities of flea larvae is to spin a silken cocoon and then enter the pupal stage.

Controlling flea larvae usually involves using vacuums to remove, use of insect growth regulators and dust formulations that cause desiccation of the larvae. 

Adults

Adult fleas begin searching for food when they emerge from the pupal stage. While fleas are noted for their jumping abilities, they will remain stationery when a suitable host is located. Females begin laying eggs within 48 hours of the first feed, thus beginning the life cycle again.

Cold environments cause eggs to perish before hatching. Humidity below 45 percent will kill larvae. Fleas in the pupal stage will become adults more rapidly in the presence of warmth and high humidity.

How To Identify and Manage a Flea Problem

How To Identify and Manage a Flea Problem
Since fleas are relatively easy to see in their adult stage, most of the attention is directed at adult fleas. Adult fleas are usually easy to locate, especially if the homeowner and their pets return to the house after a long vacation or other absence during which the resident flea adults were not able to take a blood meal. Upon returning, the homeowners are often greeted by fleas jumping around and trying to land on them and their pets.

The flea eggs, larvae and pupae are another situation. Since these stages are much more secretive and much less active, they are found in out-of-the-way places like behind, under or in the furniture; in the pet’s bedding; inside cracks and grooves in the floors; and in the carpets. Flea eggs that were deposited by the female adult, fall off your pets as they move, allowing them to be disbursed throughout the environment where a pet spends time. Flea eggs represent about one-half of the entire flea population present in an average home. Larvae make up about 35 percent of the flea population.

If conditions are favorable, the larvae will spin cocoons in about 5-20 days after hatching from their eggs. The cocoons are the flea’s pupal stage and account for about 10 percent of the flea population. This cocoon stage is the last developmental stage before the adult flea emerges. If environmental conditions are not right for emergence, the cocoon can protect the developing flea adult for months or even longer. The adult flea does not emerge until a potential host is detected by vibration, rising levels of carbon dioxide and body heat associated with the host. A pet walking by, or people moving in the house alert the flea to emerge from its cocoon to feed. Once a flea has emerged from the cocoon, it will begin taking a blood meal on a host within 24-48 hours. Shortly after the first meal, adult fleas will mate and the female fleas begin laying eggs on her host within a few days. Female fleas are not able to lay eggs until they obtain a blood meal.

Signs of  Fleas

Many signs can indicate flea activity.  A common indication would be pets that repeatedly scratch and groom themselves. This is caused by the discomfort of the flea activity as the adult fleas feed on the pet’s blood. People also may experience bites which leave behind itchy bite marks (a medical doctor can be consulted, since there are other sources of skin irritation beside fleas). Flea dirt, the adult flea feces, also can indicate activity. Flea dirt looks similar to coarse ground black pepper and may be seen in pet beds, carpets, rugs and other areas where the animal host rests.

Fleas in bedding?

Fleas are not usually found infesting a homeowner’s beds and bedding. Fleas that are observed in beds and bedding are most likely there only to take a blood meal or were perhaps dislodged from the animal if the pet is allowed to sleep in the same bed as the homeowner. However, if the homeowner does not wash and change the bedding for a long while, it is possible that the immature stages of the fleas could possibly take up residence in a bed or bedding. The more likely situation is that flea eggs, larvae and pupae are living under the bed or, even more likely, are living in the bed and bedding of the household pet(s).

Flea Facts

Flea Facts

Appearance

• Adults small, wingless, about 2.5 mm long.
• Their bodies are shiny and reddish brown in color.
• Covered with microscopic hair and are compressed to allow for easy movement through animal fur.

Behavior, Diet & Habits

Adults are parasites that draw blood from a host. Larvae feed on organic debris, particularly the feces of adult fleas, which contain undigested blood. Fleas commonly prefer to feed on hairy animals such as dogs, cats, rabbits, squirrels, rats, mice and other domesticated or wild animals. Fleas do not have wings, although they are capable of jumping long distances.

Reproduction

Eggs are not attached to the host. Eggs will hatch on the ground, in rugs, carpet, bedding, upholstery or cracks in the floor. Most hatch within two days. Read more about the life cycle of fleas in a coming up blog!

Most Common Winter Pests

As too many too often learn, such pests don't go completely inactive in the winter. In fact, when it is cold and wet or snowy outside, pests are even more likely to seek the warmth and shelter of the indoors.

Following are brief descriptions of some of the most common winter pests and links to articles with guidance for control:

1. Winged Carpenter Ants - Flying ants in the home are rarely a good sign, and this is particularly true if they are seen indoors during the winter. Finding a winged ant or two indoors during the summer does not necessarily mean there is a problem, but if winged ants are seen in the home during the winter months, there is a strong likelihood that there is a carpenter ant nest within the structure.
2. Cluster Fly - Homeowners generally expect to have to swat a fly or two in the house during the summer months.But what is an expected annoyance in the summer can be exasperating in the winter when doors and windows are sealed tight, and one wouldn't think that any flies are existing in the cold outdoors to come inside. So where are they coming from?
3. Mice - A wily, curious creature, the house mouse is the most common of home-invading mice. Cute, perhaps, in a cage in the pet store, but not so cute when it decides to make your house its home.
4. Rats - Two species of rodents are most common in the U.S.: the Norway rat and the roof rat. Along with the common house mouse, both rats are believed to have been brought to the U.S. aboard ships bound for the New World in the 17th and 18th centuries.
5. Bed bugs - For decades, the saying “Sleep tight, don’t let the bed bugs bite” was a fairly meaningless lights-out phrase for kids in the U.S. But within the last few years, bed bugs have reappeared, causing sleepless nights for homeowners and hotel owners alike.
6. Fruit Fly - The fruit fly is one of the most common, and one of the smallest flies found in the home. It is often unknowingly brought into the home on fresh fruits and vegetables. 
7. Moth Fly - Moth flies (Psychoda sp.) are a common small fly generally seen buzzing around drains - thus its common name of drain fly. Though it causes no real damage, its high numbers can cause it to become a nuisance pest in or around the home.
8. Spiders - There are more than 35,000 known spider species in the world, with only about a tenth (3,500) of those appearing in the U.S. and often only one tenth (350) of those in any single region. In general, spiders are beneficial creatures, preying and feeding on flies, crickets, mites, and other household and yard pests. Most are completely harmless to humans. But when they get into your home, they can definitely be a nuisance.
9. Overwintering Insects - Any discussion of insects over the winter is likely to elicit the term "overwintering." While its meaning can be as simple as indicating how an insect (or other animal or plant) spends its time over the winter, it more frequently is used to refer to a sort of hibernation undertaken by insects in order to survive the cold temperatures.
10.  Firewood Pests - A wood-burning stove or fireplace can bring a great deal of warmth, comfort and pleasing aesthetics into a home. However the firewood that is brought into the home for that fire can also bring with it a number of household pests.

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Winterize Your Home and Keep Pests Out

Eliminate Habitat

Inspect your home’s exterior to locate and remove potential pest and insect habitats. Typically, insects seek areas that offer moisture, food and shelter – places to rest, reproduce or hide from predators.

So think like an insect. Look for bug-size bridges, things that could give nonflying pests a leg up onto your home’s structure. Also scout for places of refuge, spots where pests can hide out. Take the following home pest control measures to minimize pest and insect invasions:

• Clean out gutters and downspouts. Accumulated debris can provide habitat for insects.
• Check downspouts to ensure they direct all water away from your home.
• Eliminate debris resting against or near the house, including rock or compost piles, old boards, or bricks.
• Store firewood outdoors and away from the house.
• Pull mulch back so it’s not resting against the house.
• Store trash cans away from your home. Trash offers a food source that’s appealing to insects and other vermin. Keep cans tightly closed at all times.
• Shift plantings so they’re not directly touching the foundation. Prune tree limbs that overhang gutters or roof lines, and trim shrubs that rub against a wall, porch or deck.
• Remove autumn leaves that collect against the house, porch and other outside structures.
• Replace exterior lights. Trade traditional bulbs, which lure insects, with yellow or sodium vapor lights.

Seal Openings

Inspect your home’s exterior carefully and take steps to seal any openings you find. This not only can help keep insect pests out, but also can help keep the heat in and cold air out.

• Replace screens with storm windows. If you leave screens in year-round, make sure they fit tightly and don’t have holes, tears or other openings.
• Check seals around entry doors and crawl space openings. Replace worn weather stripping and caulk or repair as needed.
• Inspect basement windows. If concrete is chipping or broken, replace it.
• Examine the foundation. Seal cracks and crevices with caulk or concrete. Stuff steel wool into holes.
• Look at eaves and facia boards carefully, and examine flashing. Damp wood is an invitation to insect pests. Replace any rotting wood.
• Double-check attic vents to ensure seals are tight.